Houston Lawn Watering — The Complete Technical Guide
You're Watering Concrete (And You Don't Even Know It)
Let me guess what's happening at your house.
You set your sprinklers to run 25–30 minutes per zone. Every time they run, you see water heading down the sidewalk and into the street.
You assume that's just "how sprinklers work."
Here's the truth: You're not watering your lawn. You're watering concrete.
In Houston's heavy clay soil, long irrigation cycles create runoff. The water hits the surface faster than the clay can absorb it, so it runs off before it ever reaches your grass roots.
Your lawn stays thirsty. Your water bill stays high. And you keep doing the same thing because nobody ever showed you there's a better way.
Today, with my help, that changes.
The Problem: Houston Clay Soil Can't Handle Long Watering Cycles
Most irrigation systems in Sugar Land, Missouri City, and Fort Bend County are set up wrong.
Not because the installer was incompetent—but because they programmed your controller the way controllers have always been programmed: one long cycle per zone.
That works fine in sandy Florida soil.
It does not work in Houston clay.
Clay soil is dense and compacted. It absorbs water slowly. When you dump 25 minutes of water on it all at once, the surface saturates before the water can penetrate down to where your grass roots actually live.
The result? Runoff. Wasted water. Shallow roots. A lawn that looks "okay" but never looks great.
The 5 Most Common Houston Watering Mistakes:
Running zones 25–30+ minutes in one long cycle (causes runoff in clay)
Watering at night (wet grass overnight = brown patch fungus)
Guessing by minutes instead of measuring inches (every system is different)
Using the same schedule year-round (your lawn's needs change seasonally)
Ignoring runoff (assuming it's "normal" instead of fixing it)
If you're making even one of these mistakes, you're working harder and getting worse results.
Let's fix it.
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Want the printable version with controller setup instructions for every major brand? Download the free Houston Lawn Watering Guide — includes worksheets, troubleshooting flowcharts, and seasonal calendar. Get it free here
The Solution: The Cycle & Soak Method
This is the single most important watering technique for Houston lawns.
Instead of running each zone for one long cycle, you split it into two shorter cycles with a "soak period" in between.
Here's How It Works:
Old way (causes runoff):
Zone 1: 25 minutes straight
Water runs into street
Cycle & Soak method (actually works):
Zone 1: Run 10 minutes
Turn it off
Wait 30–45 minutes
Zone 1: Run 10 minutes again
Why This Works in Clay Soil:
That pause between cycles gives the first round time to soak into the soil instead of running down the driveway.
You're still delivering the same total amount of water (about ½ inch per watering day). You're just delivering it in a way that Houston clay can actually absorb.
Total runtime: Still 20 minutes per zone
Difference: The water stays in your soil instead of the storm drain
When You DON'T Need This Method:
Skip Cycle & Soak if you have:
Sandy soil (rare in Houston)
Completely flat yard with zero runoff
Drip irrigation in flower beds only
But if you've got:
Houston clay soil (most of Fort Bend County)
Any slope at all
Water flowing into the street when you irrigate
This isn't optional. This is how you water clay soil.
How To Measure Water Properly: The Tuna Can Test
Stop guessing by minutes. Start measuring by inches.
Every sprinkler system is different. Your zone runtimes depend on head spacing, water pressure, nozzle type, and system age.
The only way to know if you're watering correctly is to measure it.
The Tuna Can Test (Do This Once, Use Forever):
What you need:
4–6 empty tuna cans (or any straight-sided container)
A timer
A ruler
How to do it:
Place cans randomly across one zone
Some near sprinkler heads, some between heads
This gives you an average
Run that zone for 15 minutes
Measure water depth in each can
Use a ruler
Average all the measurements
Calculate runtime needed for ½ inch
Example calculation:
After 15 minutes, average depth = 0.3 inches
To reach 0.5 inches: (0.5 ÷ 0.3) × 15 = 25 minutes total
Split for Cycle & Soak: 12 min + pause + 13 min
Repeat for each zone (they'll all be different)
Write Down Your Zone Runtimes:
ZoneMinutes to ½"First CycleSoakSecond Cycle125 min total12 min30-45 min13 min220 min total10 min30-45 min10 min322 min total11 min30-45 min11 min
Keep this list. You'll use it every time you adjust your controller.
Use a Soil Moisture Meter Too:
A basic soil moisture meter ($10–15 on Amazon) takes the guesswork out of watering.
How to use it:
Push the probe 3–4 inches into soil
Check reading 30 minutes after watering
What readings mean:
Dry right after watering = runoff happened, water didn't penetrate
Soggy = overwatering or too frequent
Moist = perfect
When to check:
After watering (did it penetrate?)
Between watering days (time to water yet?)
If you see fungus (overwatering?)
🛠️ Tools That Make This Easier:
Soil Moisture Meter: Get this one on Amazon — no batteries, no guessing, just push it in the soil and read the dial. This is the single best $12 you'll spend on your lawn.
Rain Gauge: Any basic rain gauge works. Set it in an open area of your yard to track rainfall accurately. Here is a good one.
Tuna Cans: Save 4–6 from your pantry. That's it. Free and perfect for the tuna can test.
The Garden Guy Amazon Store: Our Top Product Picks
After 30+ years maintaining lawns in Sugar Land, Missouri City, and Fort Bend County, I know what works in Houston and what's a waste of money.
I've put together an Amazon storefront with all my top recommendations:
👉 Shop the Garden Guy Amazon Store
What You'll Find:
Pre-Emergent Herbicides
Prevent weeds before they germinate. Timing is everything with pre-emergents — visit the store for application schedules.
Post-Emergent Herbicides
Garden Guy-approved products like Bonide Weed Beater, Ferti-lome Weed-Free Zone, and GreenLight Wipe Out. These are what I use on client lawns.
Fertilizers
Seasonal recommendations for Houston. What to apply in spring, summer, and fall for St. Augustine in our climate.
Rain gauges
Broadcast spreaders
Irrigation Components
Replacement parts, upgrade components, and tools for maintaining your system.
Houston Seasonal Watering Calendar
Your lawn's water needs change throughout the year. Using the same schedule in January and July is a recipe for problems.
Winter: December – February
Status: Dormant or semi-dormant
Frequency: Once every 2–3 weeks
Amount: ½ inch per watering
St. Augustine goes dormant below 55°F. Roots are alive but not actively growing. You're just keeping them from completely drying out.
Watch for: Hard freezes. Turn your system off before a freeze, back on after.
Spring Transition: March – April (WE ARE HERE NOW)
Status: Roots waking up, grass greening
Frequency: About 2 times per week (adjust to weather)
Amount: ½ inch per watering day
Weekly total: NOT yet at full 1-inch requirement
This is the tricky season. Houston gets warm days but cool nights. Your grass is greening up, roots are becoming active as soil temps rise.
Critical point: You do NOT have to wait for grass to be fully green before watering. Even if your St. Augustine is still partially brown, the roots are alive and active. Water it.
Adjust to conditions:
Warm and dry? Water 2x per week
Got ½" rain? Skip a cycle
Soil stays soggy? Cut back
Footprints linger in grass? Increase slightly
Watch out: Too much moisture while nights are still cool is how brown patch fungus gets started. Let soil partially dry between cycles.
⚠️ We Are in Transition Mode
We're no longer in deep winter "once every 2–3 weeks" mode.
But we're not yet at full summer demand either.
Watch the weather:
If soil stays soggy → cut back
If we get steady rain → skip cycles
If you see wilting or lingering footprints → increase slightly
Too much constant moisture while nights are still cool is how brown patch gets started in St. Augustine.
Let soil partially dry between watering cycles. That's healthy.
Summer: May – September
Status: Active growth, peak demand
Frequency: 2 times per week
Amount: ~1 inch total per week (including rainfall)
Delivery: ½ inch per watering day
This is full growing season. Hot, dry, windy conditions mean your lawn needs consistent moisture.
The real rule: Water deeply and infrequently. Two good soaks per week beats five light sprinkles every time.
Common schedule: Tuesday and Friday, or Wednesday and Saturday.
Watch for drought stress:
Footprints linger for hours
Grass looks grayish-blue (not green)
Blades fold or curl
This means increase watering slightly
Fall: October – November
Status: Slowing down, preparing for dormancy
Frequency: 1–2 times per week (decrease gradually)
Amount: ½ inch per watering
Growth slows as temps drop. You're maintaining health without pushing new growth.
Start "cycling down" your watering frequency:
Early October: 2x per week
Mid-October: 1.5x per week (skip one cycle)
November: 1x per week
December: Once every 2 weeks
Always Adjust for Rainfall
Houston gets unpredictable rain. That ~1 inch per week in summer? It's total water — irrigation PLUS rainfall.
Simple rule: If we got ½ inch or more of rain, skip that watering cycle.
Track it with:
Rain gauge in your yard ($10, super accurate)
Weather app rain totals
Soil moisture meter (if soil is moist, don't water)
Remember: We water by conditions, not calendar. If it rained yesterday and soil is still moist, don't water just because it's "watering day."
When To Water: Early Morning ONLY
Run irrigation between 3:00am – 8:00am.
Not 9am. Not 6pm. Not 10pm. Early morning only.
Why This Window Matters:
✓ Reduces evaporation (minimal wind, cooler temps)
✓ Grass dries by mid-morning (wet blades = disease risk)
✓ Lowers fungal pressure (especially brown patch)
Never water at night. Wet grass sitting in cool overnight temperatures is a fungal disease playground. Brown patch loves that.
If your system is currently set to water at 8pm or 10pm, change it today.
How To Set Up Cycle & Soak On Your Controller
Most irrigation controllers already let you do Cycle & Soak. You just need to know where to find it.
Method 1: Multiple Start Times (Works on Almost Any Controller)
This is the simplest way.
Setup:
Program A – First Cycle:
Start time: 5:00am
Zone 1: 10 minutes
Zone 2: 10 minutes
Zone 3: 10 minutes
(all your zones)
Program A – Second Cycle:
Start time: 6:00am
Zone 1: 10 minutes
Zone 2: 10 minutes
Zone 3: 10 minutes
(same zones, same times)
Done. Each zone now runs twice with 30–45 minutes between cycles.
Smart Controllers with Built-In Cycle & Soak:
Rachio:
Open Rachio app
Go to Schedule → Select program
Turn on "Cycle and Soak"
Rachio calculates optimal cycles based on your soil type and slope
That's it. Rachio does the math.
Hunter Pro-C / X-Core:
Turn dial to "Set Programs"
Select Program A
Set Start Time 1: 5:00am + zone runtimes
Set Start Time 2: 6:00am + same runtimes
Rain Bird ESP-TM2:
Turn dial to "Set Programs"
Select Program A
Set Start Time 1 + zone times
Advance to Start Time 2 + same times
Orbit B-hyve:
Open app → Select program
Tap "Advanced Settings"
Enable "Cycle & Soak"
Set soak time: 30–45 minutes
Don't see your controller here? Send me a photo at askgardenguy.com and I'll send you the exact setup steps for free.
[CTA] The full downloadable guide includes setup instructions for 10+ controller brands with screenshots. Get it free here.
Troubleshooting Common Houston Watering Problems
Problem: Water is running into the street
Cause: Clay soil can't absorb water fast enough
Solution: Switch to Cycle & Soak method immediately
Also check:
Are heads spraying onto concrete? Adjust spray pattern
Is water pressure too high? May need pressure regulator
Problem: Grass stays wet all day
Cause: Overwatering or watering too often
Solution:
Reduce frequency (3x week → 2x week)
Shady zones need less water than full sun
Make sure you're watering early morning, not evening
Problem: Footprints linger, grass looks grayish
Cause: Drought stress
Solution:
Add one more watering day per week
Or increase runtime by 2–3 minutes per cycle
Check soil moisture meter to confirm dryness
Problem: Brown patch fungus showing up
Cause: Overwatering + cool nights = fungus heaven
Solution:
Stop watering at night (early morning only)
Reduce frequency if soil stays soggy
Skip cycles when it rains
Consider fungicide application (ask me for specific recommendation from our Amazon store)
Problem: Soil meter shows dry right after watering
Cause: Runoff – water isn't penetrating
Solution:
Cycle & Soak method (see above)
Check for compacted soil (may need aeration)
Verify heads aren't misting (pressure issue)
Problem: Some zones need more water than others
Cause: This is normal
Why: Shade vs sun, head spacing differences, tree competition
Solution:
Set different runtimes per zone (tuna can test each zone)
Shady zones need 20–30% less water
Full sun zones may need slightly more
Advanced Tips for Houston Lawn Nerds
You've mastered the basics. Here's the next level.
The 3-Cycle Method (Severe Slopes)
If you have a steep slope and STILL see runoff with Cycle & Soak, try three cycles:
First: 6–8 minutes
Soak: 30 minutes
Second: 6–8 minutes
Soak: 30 minutes
Third: 6–8 minutes
Total runtime: Still ~20 minutes, just broken into smaller doses.
Zone-Specific Timing
Not all zones are equal.
Full sun zones:
Water 2x per week in summer
May need 10–15% longer runtime
Shady zones:
Water 1–2x per week in summer
Reduce runtime by 20–30%
Watch for overwatering (fungus loves shade + moisture)
Tree competition zones:
Trees steal moisture from grass
May need extra water OR consider shade-tolerant groundcover instead
Smart Controllers + ET (Evapotranspiration)
High-end controllers adjust watering based on:
Temperature
Humidity
Wind speed
Solar radiation
Result: On a hot, windy day, controller increases watering slightly. On a cool, humid day, it decreases automatically.
Controllers with ET: Rachio, Hunter Hydrawise, Rain Bird ST8-2.0, Orbit B-hyve
This is as nerdy as it gets. And it works.
The Real Rule (This Never Changes)
Water deeply and infrequently.
Measure in inches, not minutes.
Adjust to weather and let soil partially dry between cycles.
That's how you build strong, healthy roots in Houston clay.
FAQ: Houston Lawn Watering Questions
Q: Can I water my lawn if it's still partially brown after the freeze?
Yes. You do NOT have to wait for grass to be fully green. Even if St. Augustine is still brown, the roots are alive and becoming active as soil temps rise. Water it.
Q: How much water does my lawn need per week?
Spring transition (now): About ½" per watering, 2x per week = ~1" total (adjust to weather)
Summer: ~1 inch per week total (including rainfall)
Winter: ½" every 2–3 weeks
Always measure in inches, not minutes.
Q: What if we get rain? Should I still water?
No. If we got ½" or more of rain, skip that watering cycle. That rain counts toward your weekly total.
Q: Why does my grass stay wet all day?
You're overwatering or watering too often. Also check that you're watering early morning (3–8am) so grass can dry by midday.
Q: My water runs into the street. Is that normal?
No. That's runoff caused by watering too long in one cycle on clay soil. Switch to Cycle & Soak method immediately.
Q: How do I know if I'm watering enough?
Use a soil moisture meter. Push it 3–4" into soil between watering days. If it reads dry, you're not watering enough. If soggy, cut back. Moist = perfect.
Q: Can I water at night?
No. Wet grass overnight in cool temps creates perfect conditions for brown patch fungus. Always water 3–8am.
Q: Do shady areas need as much water as sunny areas?
No. Shady zones need 20–30% less water. Set different runtimes for different zones based on sun exposure.
Q: What products do you recommend for Houston lawns?
I've put together an Amazon storefront with all my top picks for fertilizers, pre-emergents, post-emergents, and lawn tools: Garden Guy Amazon Store
These are Randy Lemmon-approved products and what I actually use on client lawns in Sugar Land and Missouri City.
Want The Complete Guide?
I've put everything in this post into a printable PDF that includes:
✓ Controller setup instructions for 10+ brands (with screenshots)
✓ Zone runtime calculator worksheets
✓ Seasonal watering calendar
✓ Troubleshooting flowcharts
✓ Advanced tips for lawn nerds
✓ Product recommendations (meters, rain gauges, etc.)
Still Have Questions?
I'm Todd Farber — I've been doing horticulture and landscaping in Fort Bend County since 1991. Texas A&M trained. I've seen every lawn problem Houston clay can throw at you.
Ask me your lawn question at askgardenguy.com — I give free advice.
Shop recommended products: Garden Guy Amazon Store
The healthiest lawns in Sugar Land, Missouri City, and Houston?
They're owned by nerds.
Welcome to the club.
Garden Guy
Todd & Sabrina
Sugar Land, Texas
Serving Fort Bend County Since 1991
